A YORKSHIRE WELCOME
Louisa Castle discovers a warm welcome awaits across The Pennines and a stay which leaves her wanting to return
Lying on the edge of the North York Moors National Park, Helmsley is a 12th century market town which grew up around refreshing travellers on their journeys. At the centre has been The Black Swan, the town’s principal coaching in since 1838.
Today the inn is a focal point offering sustenance to locals and visitors alike and a place to rest the head for those travelling from further afield.
With a proud Yorkshire heritage myself, before our stay I called upon the family grapevine to gather some details. Every single one has heard and dined at The Black Swan. One, of a renowned race horse training family, claiming it ‘offered the best afternoon tea in the country.’
So we set about our weekend away with confidence and with expectation. From Hale, the journey is about two and a half hours and most of it is motorway. As soon as you turn off the A1 that weekend feeling takes over from the stresses and strains of the week.
We arrived on a cold but sunny Friday afternoon and as we pulled into the car park there were people at the outside tables tucking into their pan-fried steak and chips (their dogs eagerly waiting for the anticipatory fallen morsel), chatting to acquaintances and creating a lovely bustle to our entrance.
As we manoeuvred our way through the front door with our bags (I never was one to travel light!) we were welcomed with roaring fires and our first glimpse of that afternoon tea we’d heard so much about.
Checked in and helped with our bags, we were shown to our room. The hotel is made up of three houses; the black and white, the Georgian and the Elizabethan, which stands on the site where the original coaching inn is believed to have been for centuries.
Our home away from home for the next two nights was in the Elizabethan wing, a corner room with French windows, country styling and original features.
On our first night we experienced one of the restaurant’s foodie evenings, this one was Italian with quirky takes on traditional dishes and lots of wine to match. We shared a table with some regular diners, some who had travelled from the Midlands, some local for the evening and whilst a little daunting to start it was a great mix of people. Plus, we got the chance to pick their brains on where to go and what to do for the rest of the weekend.
A late finish, we were up the staircase (which is quite steep so be careful in those heels) and off to bed and a very comfortable one I might add.
After a hearty Yorkshire breakfast with all the trimmings and a good chat to the staff about life, love and local activities, we were ready to embark on the day.
At dinner the night before we’d been advised to take the walk to Rievaulx Abbey, one of the first Cistercian abbeys to be founded in England, so we set out amongst the not-so-early morning mist.
It’s a varied walk with forest, farmland, estate buildings and sheep but when you first see the ruins through a cutting in the hedge it’s a magical sight and well worth the walk. After a tour and obligatory tea in the cafe it was time to head back to Helmsley town to explore and maybe sample a few more local treats.
We soon ran out of time dipping in and out of the independent stores, so it was too late to sample afternoon tea or the Verbena spa, both of which again, came highly recommended. There’s also a chauffeur service should you wish to explore beyond walking distance from Yorkshire Lavender to a trip on the steam railway.
It was time to dine in The Gallery restaurant and sample the à la carte menu. The delightful tartan-clad Cygnet Bar was our first port of call. As the weather turned and roared outside there was no better place to be than in front of the roaring fire, excellent Merlot (and local craft beer) in hand, spending some quality time and contemplating dinner.
Again the staff was great, treading that fine line between over friendly yet welcoming with ease. Mouth-watering dishes passed in front of us and were savoured; scallops; duck; beef and Yorkshire cheese board. The Gallery also offers a six-course tasting menu for anyone who wants to sample more or just can’t make their mind up, plus there’s a daily market menu.
For us, the perfect end to our break away. Having said that, I think we will be back for that afternoon tea and next time we may just treat our newest member of the family, Daisy the Border Collie to the weekend away too.
The Black Swan offers a range of special stays on their website including the Spa and phodographer
EXPLORE
Rievaulx Abbey
After a hearty breakfast set out on a beautiful walk to see the magical ruins of Rievaulx Abbey settled in the mist. The walk takes about an hour (each way) and is clearly signposted.
Scotts Fish & Chips.
A traditional fully-licensed fish and chip restaurant and takeaway providing the perfect sustenance after exploring the walks or town.
6 Bridge Street, Helmsley, YO62 5BG (scottsofhelmsley.co.uk)
Hunters of Helmsley
Run by Yorkshire farmers this two level store is a cornucopia of local and international treats and gifts. We recommend a good sampling of the cheeses.
13 Market Place, Helmsley, YO62 5BL (huntersofhelmsley.com)
Gin & Jellytots
louisa@ginandjellytots.co.uk // 078 0308 4424
Copyright Gin & Jellytots, 2024. Privacy Policy